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The perfect weekend on Portugal’s paradise island, four hours from the UK

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The perfect weekend on Portugal’s paradise island, four hours from the UK

October 18, 2024
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The perfect weekend on Portugal’s paradise island, four hours from the UK
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Madeira is no longer a destination for retirees alone, its diverse scenery mixing mountains, striking natural pools and forest trails are attracting a new generation of travellers eager to get out into the wild. This Portuguese island is certainly ripe for outdoor folks. From serene walks on the cobbled streets of the capital Funchal to canyoning jumps deep in the east and endless swimming opportunities, you’ll have a hard time staying still here. No matter what time you visit you’re bound to find a festa to celebrate – just find the town with the colourful bunting. That’s where you’ll find locals selling meat on skewers, sliding wine-simmered pork on sandwiches or mixing yet another batch of poncha to keep the party going.

For more Madeira inspiration, see our guides to the island’s best hotels, restaurants, nightlife and things to do.


In this guide

  • How to spend your weekend
  • Insider tips
  • When to go
  • Where to stay
  • How to get there and how to get around
  • Map of Madeira
  • What to bring home
  • Know before you go

How to spend your weekend

Day one: morning

Kickstart the day in the heart of Funchal with an espresso and a queijada, Madeira’s traditional cheese tart, at the small kiosk inside the Municipal Garden. Then take a wander along Avenida Arriaga past Blandy’s, where you can nip in for a Madeira wine tasting (the first cellar tour starts at 10:30am). After taking in the city’s cathedral further up the street, the smell of freshly baked cookies will draw you into Fábrica Santo António, the perfect spot to stock up on passion fruit cookies and Madeira honey cake. Continue walking along the shopping street Rua Dr Fernão Ornelas and stop at Mercado dos Lavradores to eye the colourful exotic fruit stalls and the fish market in the back before stopping for freshly caught scabbard fish at Bela 5.

Madeira travel guide
Explore the Mercado dos Lavradores for fresh produce – Ilse de Groot

Afternoon

Enter the old town via Rua de Santa Maria and saunter down towards the waterfront taking in the views from the Fortress of São Tiago. You can stop here for a swim or continue uphill to the Barreirinha Bathing Complex, a paid section where you can dive straight into the water without walking on slippery stones. Then kick back with a banana beer or passion fruit lemonade at Barreirinha Bar Café.

Late

Hop on a taxi or take the seaside promenade to the fishing town of Câmara de Lobos. Look out for the bars around Rua Nossa Senhora da Conceição which specialise in poncha. This traditional punchy drink combines the island’s sugarcane firewater (or rum) with honey and fresh fruit juices – the best places squeeze the fruit right in front of you. The most typical versions are the poncha regional made with orange juice and the poncha à pescador with lemon, though these days you can find anything from passion fruit to mint and ginger. Grab dinner in town at Minerva which crafts a mean ceviche and mustardy croque madame or taxi it up the hill for a feast of espetadas (meat skewers) at Restaurante Santo António.

Day two: morning

Rent a car and point your GPS east to catch the sunrise at Ponta de São Lourenço, a headland that looks like Mars with its red barren terrain – the other-worldly setting was featured in Star Wars’ The Acolyte series released in 2024. If you’re up for a hike, follow the 3.7-mile trail along the cliffs. Otherwise, drive off to nearby Prainha for a morning swim – the bar on this small sandy beach usually opens around 11am and serves a great toast on bolo do caco, a sweet potato bread that is a staple in the island’s restaurants. Continue up the coast towards Quinta do Furão for a contemporary take on Madeiran cuisine. Think shrimp served on a bed of banana guacamole and vegan-friendly options like skewers with milho frito (fried maize). Then take a wander along the estate’s surrounding vineyards facing the sea.

Madeira travel guide
A plate at Quinta do Furão – Joana Taborda

Afternoon

Take a moment to stretch your legs before venturing on your first Madeira hike. The island’s irrigation channels have been converted into a network of hiking trails known as levadas, but there are also nature paths away from the waterways known as veredas. Among the easiest ones is the Vereda dos Balcões, a 1.8-mile round trail departing from Ribeiro Frio, which is also a prime spot for canyoning. Back in the car, zigzag your way down to Funchal, stopping at O Barracão for a pick-me-up cortado (a coffee with a dash of Madeira wine) facing the forest.

Madeira travel guide
Hike along the coast of Madeira for epic views – Joana Taborda

Late

Before the night comes to an end, take the Estrada dos Marmeleiros to Funchal’s marina – the GPS may want to veer you off course, but this is the best route to avoid perilously narrow roads. Park up by the docks and take the lift up to the Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva just in time for sunset. Wander around the restaurant’s terrace as the lights turn on before hunkering down for a delicious meal of beef tartar, braised tuna or roasted octopus. If you want to keep the night going head up to the ThreeHouse rooftop for a cocktail with a view or enjoy a craft beer nightcap at Fugacidade.


Insider tips

Island hack

The weather in Madeira can be unpredictable, especially if you’re hiking. The sun may be shining in the south but it can be foggy and rainy up north, so pack appropriately and keep an eye out on the local webcams for a visual update.

Madeira travel guide
The weather in Madeira can be unpredictable – Joana Taborda

Attractions

Funchal is the departing point for dolphin-and-whale-watching tours across the Atlantic. In summer, many boats do a pitstop down by Cabo Girão or if you’re lucky around Calhau da Lapa, a scenic swimming spot sheltered by rocky cliffs. Pack your swimsuit and towel to make the most of it.

Natural pools & beach watch

For a dip in the sea backed by striking views head north towards the natural pools of Porto Moniz or Seixal. This last town is also home to a wide volcanic sand beach if you fancy getting your toes in the sand.

Did you know?

Madeira wine was the drink of choice to toast the signing of the American Declaration of Independence back in 1776. Despite its fame, most Madeirans skip this fortified drink, opting for a cold Coral lager or a freshly-made poncha instead.


When to go

Madeira has mild weather with spring temperatures pretty much all year round. That said you’ll encounter a fair share of microclimates across the island. You could be swimming on the south coast in the morning and have your cold-weather gear on in the afternoon if you’re heading up to the mountains. July and August are the busiest, while winter is usually quieter with most of the rainfall pouring around January.

Madeira travel guide
Madeira has year-round mild weather – Francisco Correia

Where to stay

Luxury Living

For over a century, Belmond Reid’s Palace has welcomed guests to its luxurious haven on the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Traditional interiors celebrating the hotel’s British heritage look onto lush subtropical gardens of honeysuckle and jade vine, the swimming pools, and the sea beyond.

Read our full review here.

Boutique Beauty

Quinta do Furão, on the far northeastern coast of the island, is a 45-room hotel, perfectly placed for walkers and nature lovers. Both the hotel and acclaimed restaurant which is set right on the cliff’s edge have magnificent views of the coastline on one side and Madeira’s highest mountain on the other.

Read our full review here.

Quinta do Furão, Madeira travel guide
The grounds at Quinta do Furão – Joana Taborda

Budget Bolthole

Caju Le Petit Hotel, little sister to the award-winning The Vine hotel, is proof that petit is parfait. Youthful, energetic and eager to please, it charms with its industrial-leaning interiors that still respect its 19th-century heritage, and an excellent restaurant that specialises in nutritious and delicious dining.

Read our full review here.


How to get there and how to get around

British Airways,Easyjet, Ryanair and Jet2 fly directly from the UK to Madeira’s Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport. Once there, you can get the Aerobus to Funchal or book a ride using the Bolt or Taxiin apps. The Siga buses take you around the island, but renting a car (at the airport or in town) is the best option if you want to reach more remote areas. The hilly terrain and narrow roads may be hard to tackle with a manual car, so paying a little extra for an automatic is worth it.


Map of Madeira


What to bring home

A bottle of Madeira wine always goes down well and you can buy it in any supermarket for a fraction of the price of the airport, though you’ll need to transport it in your checked-in suitcase.

Browse the traditional Madeiran embroidery designs over at Bordal or get your hands on a colourful embroidered t-shirt from Bailha at the concept shop SOU. authentic Madeira.


Know before you go

Essential information

  • Tourist office: Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; + 351 291 145 305; visitmadeira
  • Emergency fire, police and ambulance: 112
  • British Embassy: Rua de São Bernardo 33, Lisbon; +351 213 924 000; gov.uk

The basics

  • Flight time: Four hours
  • Currency: Euros (€)
  • International dialling code: +351
  • Time difference: GMT+1

Local laws and etiquette

Avoid doing the island’s levadas on your own, always bring a friend or join a local tour guide who is familiar with the hiking trails. Some paths may close after rainy days. The Institute of Forests and Nature Conservation is the best place to check for updates on open routes.

Accessibility for travellers with disabilities

Madeira is increasingly working on its accessibility features. Visitors can bring their own wheelchairs or hire equipment such as scooters directly on the island. Although most paths are narrow and hilly, the area along the waterfront is usually flat and there are adapted trails like Um Caminho para Todos which are wide enough for a wheelchair.

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