Fashion’s new ‘It’ colour is the perfect choice for midlifers

Plus: Lisa solves your fashion dilemmas below

Fashion’s most underestimated colour is back – and it’s ultra-flattering for mature complexions.

“Why did no one ever tell me brown was such a great colour?” asked a friend when we were out shopping a few weeks ago. It’s possible they did, and she wasn’t listening. No one was. Like me, you may have been too wrapped up in navy or grey. Or maybe you’re a steadfast goth. Or perhaps someone once told you you’re “good in colour” and you’ve avoided the dark side of the spectrum ever since.

The catwalks and shops have finally twigged, but may have underestimated demand. Cos, for example, has a brilliant cropped wool brown jacket this autumn – but it’s almost sold out.

What I’ve discovered about brown is that it can be both dark, and not dark. At the espresso end, it’s a warmer stand-in for black. At the Cadbury’s chocolate-with-a-glass-and-a-half-of-milk point, it’s a more practical version of taupe. It’s made up of red, yellow and black, or red and green. That means there’s something for every skin tone. Mood-wise, it stretches from earthy or country to decadent or ultra-minimalist.

Corduroy shirt dress, £319, Polo Ralph Lauren

If you wear a lot of black, I recommend trying a bit of brown close to your face. Cos has a dark-brown polo-neck for £55 that will look much less harsh on many skins than black. If you don’t wear high necks, then the Tartan Blanket Company has this jaunty mint-edged brown merino wool bandana. You’ll still be able to carry on wearing black elsewhere, if that’s your vibe, but a little tweaking of shades around the neck and shoulders could make you look fresher and more glowy.

Because of its range, brown goes with many other colours – most shades of green, yellow, orange, purple, light blue and, of course, white – so it’s not hard-working some in. Brown boots, for example, are more versatile than black, and brown “mock croc” tends to look better than black, so if you’re hankering after some, this is the season.

Quilted coat, £130, Boden

The big revelation for me, is that navy, which has been my less-hard-than-black go-to for years, is less flattering on my skin these days than brown, which is warmer and livelier. I’ve been trialling various browns with my favourite navy pieces to see which combinations gel best. My findings? Coppery is good, as are pale or oatmealy browns. Bitter chocolate can look sensational with navy too.

It’s important to know what to mix brown with – most of us can’t or don’t want to replace our whole wardrobe. Bear in mind that, unlike black, different shades of brown also look lovely together, especially when you mix textures. That’s easy this season as fluffy knits and shiny satins/patents are plentiful. The former adds depth and an air of luxury. The latter stops brown looking too serious and wholemeal. So do go for brown – but make it glamorous.